Thursday, March 31, 2011
Tuesday, March 1, 2011
The Evolution of a Modern Chef - Part I
My first experience in the restaurant industry was working for one of the greatest American chefs at the time. This was pre Food Channel era when you had less than ten nationally acclaimed chefs. It was the time when the term "celebrity chef" was first introduced in the American food lingo. It was also the time when the chefs were in their kitchens cooking for their patrons and the only food show we had on tv came to us from Japan and featured "kitchen battles," between some of the greatest Asian chefs competing in cook-offs against the most talented of the new world chefs. Then came the creation of the Food Channel and the whole culinary landscape was changed forever.
Before I get to the chefs of the day, I have to share some memories of my youth, when my love for food was first developed. It all started with my mother, whose cuisine I crave and enjoy to this day. Being of Hungarian roots with Serbian (we grew up in Serbia) and Austrian influences (my mom went to a finishing school in Austria), her style of cooking is central European. Basically, if you are concerned about your waistline avoid stopping by mom's house. We still tell stories, how she used to make gourmet baby food for me and my sister(with chicken livers, all kinds of fresh veggies and best of veal). I remember her cooking elaborate stews for our dog Buca (it means fatty and guess why). I remember seeing illustrations of the spreads that were created at different courts around Europe and I guarantee you that those had nothing on my mother's New Years menu. Imagine a large dinner table with 15-20 dishes that included her version of deviled eggs (with ham and home-made mayo), Russian salad, bell pepper and eggplant spread-mousse, terrine de fois-gras, at least three different savory pies, a roast pig, cucumber and yogurt salad, a baked bean dish, stuffed cabbage, just to name a few. There was so much good food that our house was always full. My parents friends would stop by several times to wish us Happy New Year, my friends would stay for sleepovers over and over again and the neighbor's dog would just sit in front of our door, waiting for a treat from my mom. Her cooking definitely helped for a very happy childhood.
In addition, I was also fortunate enough to have parents who from my young age tried to instill an appreciation for food and different cuisines of the world. We traveled a lot and on our travels I got to taste all the wonderful European cuisines with an occasional foray into Asian art of food making. The biggest treat was a special dinner my parents organized in honor of my 18th birthday and it took place at the "Crissier," in Lausanne, Switzerland. At the time "Crissier" was considered the best restaurant in the world and it was home to the legendary Freddy Girardet. I will never forget when Mr. Girardet came out of the kitchen to wish me a happy birthday and then spent about 15 minutes talking to me about my life, my likes and dislikes, trying to get a quick picture of who I was. What ensued was, to this day, the most memorable meal I ever had. I remember discovering tastes buds in my mouth that I never knew I had. If an orgasm of the mouth is possible, it happened to me on that glorious day almost 20 years ago.
That day I realized that cooking is an art. It evoked in me the memory I had when I saw Van Gogh paintings for the first time. Both experiences were so beautiful, so transforming, that they left a permanent mark on me. They created a belief that life is beautiful because we, humans, are able to create such wonderful things. For years later, a memory of those two events, helped me at times through hardships of war and destitute.
To be continued....
Before I get to the chefs of the day, I have to share some memories of my youth, when my love for food was first developed. It all started with my mother, whose cuisine I crave and enjoy to this day. Being of Hungarian roots with Serbian (we grew up in Serbia) and Austrian influences (my mom went to a finishing school in Austria), her style of cooking is central European. Basically, if you are concerned about your waistline avoid stopping by mom's house. We still tell stories, how she used to make gourmet baby food for me and my sister(with chicken livers, all kinds of fresh veggies and best of veal). I remember her cooking elaborate stews for our dog Buca (it means fatty and guess why). I remember seeing illustrations of the spreads that were created at different courts around Europe and I guarantee you that those had nothing on my mother's New Years menu. Imagine a large dinner table with 15-20 dishes that included her version of deviled eggs (with ham and home-made mayo), Russian salad, bell pepper and eggplant spread-mousse, terrine de fois-gras, at least three different savory pies, a roast pig, cucumber and yogurt salad, a baked bean dish, stuffed cabbage, just to name a few. There was so much good food that our house was always full. My parents friends would stop by several times to wish us Happy New Year, my friends would stay for sleepovers over and over again and the neighbor's dog would just sit in front of our door, waiting for a treat from my mom. Her cooking definitely helped for a very happy childhood.
In addition, I was also fortunate enough to have parents who from my young age tried to instill an appreciation for food and different cuisines of the world. We traveled a lot and on our travels I got to taste all the wonderful European cuisines with an occasional foray into Asian art of food making. The biggest treat was a special dinner my parents organized in honor of my 18th birthday and it took place at the "Crissier," in Lausanne, Switzerland. At the time "Crissier" was considered the best restaurant in the world and it was home to the legendary Freddy Girardet. I will never forget when Mr. Girardet came out of the kitchen to wish me a happy birthday and then spent about 15 minutes talking to me about my life, my likes and dislikes, trying to get a quick picture of who I was. What ensued was, to this day, the most memorable meal I ever had. I remember discovering tastes buds in my mouth that I never knew I had. If an orgasm of the mouth is possible, it happened to me on that glorious day almost 20 years ago.
That day I realized that cooking is an art. It evoked in me the memory I had when I saw Van Gogh paintings for the first time. Both experiences were so beautiful, so transforming, that they left a permanent mark on me. They created a belief that life is beautiful because we, humans, are able to create such wonderful things. For years later, a memory of those two events, helped me at times through hardships of war and destitute.
To be continued....
Sunday, February 27, 2011
NYC Fashion Week
I am sitting at the host stand of the restaurant where I work, bored, counting minutes before the last annoying couple finally gets a room, when a woman wearing a waist-length fur coat, leather pants and latest Louboutin's, walks in. I am immediately mesmerized, not so much by her obvious beauty, but her clothes and shoes. She commands my attention right away. Although she just wants to use the toilette, my mind is no longer bored. I am thinking, if this was last year she would have probably worn black tights and brown boots, but this year that's passe. Short furs are in and all the fashionistas are wearing them. That, in essence, is what Fashion Week is about when the city gets invaded with fashionistas and everyone else who is, or wants to be, a part of this innovative industry.
Naturally, when you work at a trendy hip restaurant which is part of an even trendier hotel, during the Fashion Week (one in September and other in February), you get bombarded by designers, models, magazine editors, photographers and lots of wannabes who for at least a New York minute want to feel like they belong.
My first encounter with Fashion Week was as a server. Our managers prepped us for the onslaught of masses soon to descend on our restaurant. They did come and many of them. Lots of them very famous and even if they were just wannabes, they were all good looking. There was an abundance of gay men and really skinny girls. So much coke was on the toilette paper holders, that I think the Colombian drug lords plan ahead for these events, almost as much as Anna Wintour. And for all that hoopla the restaurant did pretty much the same numbers as any other week. The problem is that nobody eats. Yes, the alcohol consumtion goes up, but if you consider that you are doing 25% more covers than any other week and your sales haven't budged, the obvious answer is that nobody is eating. Funny though, you would think that the models are the ones starving themselves, not at all, its the entourage, the groupies and the wannabe models who are sharing an order of crostini among 6 of them.
So, the obvious question is what do you do to boost your sales or change the approach to these grand happenings. Nothing, look at it this way, for a crazy week, if you are lucky enough, your place is the center of attention, bustling with beautiful people and everyone else who wants to be a part of the beautiful group. All you can hope for is that when the party is over, some of those people continue coming back. As far as I am concerned, I love it and I hope that one day I'll own a place that will be the trendy destination during Fashion Week.
Until then, I am gathering courage and psyching myself for next week to write about the holy grail of the restaurant industry, the chef. My friends, give me strength.
Naturally, when you work at a trendy hip restaurant which is part of an even trendier hotel, during the Fashion Week (one in September and other in February), you get bombarded by designers, models, magazine editors, photographers and lots of wannabes who for at least a New York minute want to feel like they belong.
My first encounter with Fashion Week was as a server. Our managers prepped us for the onslaught of masses soon to descend on our restaurant. They did come and many of them. Lots of them very famous and even if they were just wannabes, they were all good looking. There was an abundance of gay men and really skinny girls. So much coke was on the toilette paper holders, that I think the Colombian drug lords plan ahead for these events, almost as much as Anna Wintour. And for all that hoopla the restaurant did pretty much the same numbers as any other week. The problem is that nobody eats. Yes, the alcohol consumtion goes up, but if you consider that you are doing 25% more covers than any other week and your sales haven't budged, the obvious answer is that nobody is eating. Funny though, you would think that the models are the ones starving themselves, not at all, its the entourage, the groupies and the wannabe models who are sharing an order of crostini among 6 of them.
So, the obvious question is what do you do to boost your sales or change the approach to these grand happenings. Nothing, look at it this way, for a crazy week, if you are lucky enough, your place is the center of attention, bustling with beautiful people and everyone else who wants to be a part of the beautiful group. All you can hope for is that when the party is over, some of those people continue coming back. As far as I am concerned, I love it and I hope that one day I'll own a place that will be the trendy destination during Fashion Week.
Until then, I am gathering courage and psyching myself for next week to write about the holy grail of the restaurant industry, the chef. My friends, give me strength.
Thursday, February 17, 2011
The New York Experience
Having worked in two cities (Washington DC and Las Vegas) where the service industry is regarded as a life calling, I was surprised to encounter the lack of talent in NYC. I remember during one my interviews when I first arrived, the General Manager looked at my resume, seemed impressed by it (I had about ten years of managerial experience at the time) and then told me that I lacked New York experience. Startled at first, I replied that having served various Kings and Presidents I was confident that I could handle anything New York had to throw at me. Soon, however I discovered that "having New York experience," really had nothing to do with the quality of service.
The above mentioned GM did eventually offer me the job. Since the restaurant is a famous and trendy spot, I came prepared to work with sharks and just keep my head above water. After my first training shift I realized that I was one of only two sharks in the water. 90% of New York servers are not that by profession. They are actors, musicians, painters, sculptors, writers, basically artists of all sorts. Although, there are exceptions, many of these servers hate the job that feeds them. They don't know much about food, they have no clue about wine and often they are rude or completely disinterested in their customer's experience. All they care about is the 20% tip.
Before I get into solutions for building a successful New York team, there is an important distinction I have to make. Among these artists-servers there are two kinds: the young aspiring ones; and the bitter older ones. As an experienced manager, you can actually work with young artists-servers. They tend to have a lot of enthusiasm, are new to the city and are willing to learn and be shaped the way you think is right. They can actually prove to be really good. The more experienced, bitter kind, stay away from. Be careful though they can easily fool you. They know a lot about food and wine, they interview great, they can be very charming, but if you asked how do they see themselves, to one they'll all tell you that they are artists, although they've been waiting tables for 20-30 years.
The key is to have 2-3 real professionals because here in New York you can't escape the artist-server type. When it comes to hiring try to hire the young, enthusiatic artist if you are getting a good vibe and you think they are coachable. You have to know how to manage, motivate and stay on their backs, so that they can perform, have the customers leaving happy and the owners pockets filled. The more expererienced server-artists can be tricky. You have to be able to use their immense knowledge and experience for the benefit of the restaurant. The important thing is to keep them happy, usually that means they have to make money. If, on the other hand, you inherited a staff, the best initial approach is a new beginning. By that I mean everyone is starting fresh and you give everyone a chance to prove themselves. In some instances, firing someone (deserving) can be a great motivator.
Eventually, I was promoted to a manager at this trendy spot and on my staff I have both of the above mentioned artist-server type. I was also lucky in that I inherited several true pros. After about 6 months of managing, coaching and occasionally baby-sitting I am proud to say that we have a good, cohesive and happy staff. The result is obvious, our sales increased by $800 K in the last year. So, the true answer is good management, because they are your professionals, but about that next time.
The above mentioned GM did eventually offer me the job. Since the restaurant is a famous and trendy spot, I came prepared to work with sharks and just keep my head above water. After my first training shift I realized that I was one of only two sharks in the water. 90% of New York servers are not that by profession. They are actors, musicians, painters, sculptors, writers, basically artists of all sorts. Although, there are exceptions, many of these servers hate the job that feeds them. They don't know much about food, they have no clue about wine and often they are rude or completely disinterested in their customer's experience. All they care about is the 20% tip.
Before I get into solutions for building a successful New York team, there is an important distinction I have to make. Among these artists-servers there are two kinds: the young aspiring ones; and the bitter older ones. As an experienced manager, you can actually work with young artists-servers. They tend to have a lot of enthusiasm, are new to the city and are willing to learn and be shaped the way you think is right. They can actually prove to be really good. The more experienced, bitter kind, stay away from. Be careful though they can easily fool you. They know a lot about food and wine, they interview great, they can be very charming, but if you asked how do they see themselves, to one they'll all tell you that they are artists, although they've been waiting tables for 20-30 years.
The key is to have 2-3 real professionals because here in New York you can't escape the artist-server type. When it comes to hiring try to hire the young, enthusiatic artist if you are getting a good vibe and you think they are coachable. You have to know how to manage, motivate and stay on their backs, so that they can perform, have the customers leaving happy and the owners pockets filled. The more expererienced server-artists can be tricky. You have to be able to use their immense knowledge and experience for the benefit of the restaurant. The important thing is to keep them happy, usually that means they have to make money. If, on the other hand, you inherited a staff, the best initial approach is a new beginning. By that I mean everyone is starting fresh and you give everyone a chance to prove themselves. In some instances, firing someone (deserving) can be a great motivator.
Eventually, I was promoted to a manager at this trendy spot and on my staff I have both of the above mentioned artist-server type. I was also lucky in that I inherited several true pros. After about 6 months of managing, coaching and occasionally baby-sitting I am proud to say that we have a good, cohesive and happy staff. The result is obvious, our sales increased by $800 K in the last year. So, the true answer is good management, because they are your professionals, but about that next time.
Thursday, February 10, 2011
3 Reasons for Mediocrity
Since I moved to NYC (almost two years ago), I noticed how much the hospitality industry has grown. Although, I encountered this immense growth in the last decade in Las Vegas and Washington D.C. (cities I lived and worked in prior to my move here), the consequences are most apparent in NYC.
First obvious consequence is the lack of quality or wide range of mediocrity, especially when it comes to restaurants. 9/11 became the turning point for the restaurant industry. It wasn't so much the horrific event, but the economically forced transformation from the few really good, extravagant and uber expensive restaurants that dominated the big city landscape, to many affordable local spots that are all over our big cities. Two major things happened. People stopped dinning in these bastions of indulgence and the "Restaurant Week" created a new phenomenon.
Although, there are still a few Michelin rated restaurants left, the "Restaurant Week" showed us that you could go out and eat affordably on daily basis. As a result, restaurants with selection under $20 mushroomed everywhere. The obvious positives are, cheap food and every possible cuisine you can imagine within walking distance from your home. Unfortunately, the negatives are striking. The food is mediocre at best (there are exceptions) and the level of service and the talent available is alarming, which is the second consequence of the industry's growth.
The third reason is the media and the "celebrity chefs." The enormous power of the American media has once more transformed an industry and a way of life. In its neverending quest for more, the media found a perfect new tool to attract the bored, the chefs and their huge egos. The only problem being, they never cook or better said they never cook for their patrons.
In the next several postings I will tackle different aspects of my industry for which I have an immense passion and desire to try to bring back some of the "old school" and combine it with the exciting new restaurant landscape.
First obvious consequence is the lack of quality or wide range of mediocrity, especially when it comes to restaurants. 9/11 became the turning point for the restaurant industry. It wasn't so much the horrific event, but the economically forced transformation from the few really good, extravagant and uber expensive restaurants that dominated the big city landscape, to many affordable local spots that are all over our big cities. Two major things happened. People stopped dinning in these bastions of indulgence and the "Restaurant Week" created a new phenomenon.
Although, there are still a few Michelin rated restaurants left, the "Restaurant Week" showed us that you could go out and eat affordably on daily basis. As a result, restaurants with selection under $20 mushroomed everywhere. The obvious positives are, cheap food and every possible cuisine you can imagine within walking distance from your home. Unfortunately, the negatives are striking. The food is mediocre at best (there are exceptions) and the level of service and the talent available is alarming, which is the second consequence of the industry's growth.
The third reason is the media and the "celebrity chefs." The enormous power of the American media has once more transformed an industry and a way of life. In its neverending quest for more, the media found a perfect new tool to attract the bored, the chefs and their huge egos. The only problem being, they never cook or better said they never cook for their patrons.
In the next several postings I will tackle different aspects of my industry for which I have an immense passion and desire to try to bring back some of the "old school" and combine it with the exciting new restaurant landscape.
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